How To Measure A Vent Cover

Installation Is A Snap.

Here's What Yous Need To Know.

There have been so many finned tube element manufacturers over the terminal seven decades it'due south likely you take no idea which company made your baseboard heaters. The majority of these firms are long gone – forth with the possibility of getting replacements for parts that went missing or need replacing. To solve this problem, the baseboard covers utilise a simple one piece, one-size-fits-most design that complies geometrically to about 95% of all hydronic (hot water blazon) baseboard heaters e'er made. The overall objective of the Retrofitting Guide is to confirm that the existing finned tube element will be completely covered. The guide is applicable to all product serial except Premium TALL (see the notes below to know when this taller version is necessary).

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Remove one endcap and the front end panel.

Measure between the finished flooring and the top of the baseboard heater.

Objective: 7-i/ii″ or greater.

If this measurement is less than 7-1/two″, the alternative mounting method that uses VCU-WB001-BLK wall brackets volition exist needed. The wall brackets will bring the height upwards by a minimum of

1-1/4″.Note: Units with a peak of 9" or more from the flooring to the peak of the back plate will demand to use Premium Alpine.

Measure out between the bottom of the heating element and the top of the baseboard heater.

Objective: Between 5″ and 6-3/4″.

If this measurement is less than 5″ it is likely the floor to summit elevation is less than 7-1/two″ as noted in footstep #2. In this case, the VCU-WB001-BLK wall brackets should be used to bring the mounting height up for proper coverage. If the altitude is 6-3/4″ or greater, the BB003 Premium TALL contour should be used.

Measure between the outside face of the finned tube heating element and the dorsum plate.

Objective: Less than 3-1/8″.

Information technology is very uncommon to fail this final check. If the larger 4″ x iv″ or 4″ x 6″ commercial style chemical element is in place, a picture-framing in a wood molding as shown hither volition solve the depth effect.

No Dorsum Plate? No Problem!

Sometimes the back plate is not available to be used for a quick and easy sideslip-on installation. It might be a new structure environment or a totally gutted renovation. As with every possible scenario, we have a unproblematic solution using piece of cake-to-install wall brackets.

The back plate, by the manner, is that chintzy piece of metal that was secured to your wall without whatever thought on how information technology might exist removed ane 24-hour interval when it rusted. Back plates installed prior to the 1990's are probably nailed in place, but even if screws were used, it'southward still not an easy job equally the finned tube element is normally positioned in a manner that makes accessing the spiral heads nearly impossible. Information technology's a tricky chore, only our friends at Ask This Old House made it look like shooting fish in a barrel when they did a great piece on how to remove the back plate.

• Ensure the wall backside the baseboard heater is patched and painted up to viii″ above the finished floor.
• Locate the nearest stud (or some solid material behind the sheetrock) at both ends of the heater.
• To make the task piece of cake, locate and drill a airplane pilot hole 7″ to a higher place the finished floor. This is only a recommended height. Ultimately yous can decide how high to mount the Baseboard panel.
• Using the screws provided, secure one VCU-WB001-BLK wall bracket at each end of the heater. Utilise a third in the center for additional support and for vi′ and 7′ lengths.
• The wall subclass will produce a thin gap betwixt itself and the wall. This gap will receive the lip on the back side of the Baseboard panel every bit illustrated.

Source: https://ventcoversunlimited.com/baseboard-heater-retrofit

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